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Grey's Point Inn, Acklins Island 03-12-1998

Power lines snaking north were the first visible reminder of a new government administration's effects on these outermost of Bahamian out-islands. It was great to be back on Acklins Islands and the 30 minute drive on very bumpy roads didn't bother me a bit. We were a group of four. Including me, there was John Pinto, one of the owners of Grey's Point Inn, and his two friends, Mike and Gail Conrad from Michigan. I was finally going to make it to the north end of Acklins and I was very excited about the possibilities.

The comfortable Grey's Point van pulled into the driveway of the inn and we were greeted with a commanding view of an extensive flats system bordered on the east by the "big blue" of the open ocean. We rigged rods, slathered on sunscreen and piled into canoes. We paddled 200 yards across a small cut to a beautiful flat that I had noticed from the lodge. I almost immediately saw a bonefish sitting beneath a lip while the tidal rush ripped overhead. "Just like a trout on a river" I mused, "waiting for its meal to float by." I casted to this fellow and he eagerly charged my fly. I strip striked and he was on only briefly as the fly made an early exit from his mouth. My next fish turned out to be a 7 lb. brute that I spooked while wading on this overcast afternoon. I casted over his fleeing form, he immediately stopped, turned and ate my fly. If this fellow was any indicator, we weren't chasing the most highly sophisticated or experienced bonefish in the Bahamas. I love big, dumb fish! Under poor light conditions, we quit early and soon enjoyed a wonderful meal of grey snapper and Bahamian rice before retiring.

The second and third day, I fished the flats surrounding Lovely Bay, a twenty minute car ride from the lodge. We spent almost a full day exploring the flats of "The Going Through" and the east end of Crooked Island. Big fish, lots of hookups and huge muds of smaller fish bode well for future explorations. I even had a permit charge my gotcha rigged to the end of my 8 weight rig. This 30 lb. monster would have made quick work of my backing. I had mixed emotions when I saw him dart away after coming up empty on my strip strike after he tailed on the gotcha. My favorite evening was fishing a flat directly across from the village at Lovely Bay. The sun was setting and very large 7-11 lb bonefish were tailing at low tide on this softly undulating flat. We caught a few and spooked too many in the failing light. I will never forget those huge glassy tails waving in the saturated light of the setting sun. My last day was spent exploring north from Grey's Point towards Atwood Harbor. Every flat held fish and I managed to catch over 20 on one flat in a 22 hour period. John Pinto and I even managed to catch fish while we walked the boat across a shallow stretch at low tide. While guides Newton and Garin Williamson watched, we took shots at medium-sized bones cruising off the flats in the shallowing waters. The fishing at Grey's Point is extensive, relatively untouched, and my favorite kind, that is: hard-bottomed, white sand flats, bordered by deeper turquoise cuts and channels.

Grey's Point Inn is a wonderful place for the hard-core, adventuresome bonefishermen. It is not for everyone. With three bedrooms and a capacity for 6, the one-and-only bathroom is, at times, in constant use. The shower has no hot water. There is plenty of water to bathe, but this is a very arid island and the owners have decided not to provide hot water in an effort to conserve water. Each bedroom has a ceiling fan, but on still evenings this wasn't quite enough and a few no-see-ums found their way onto my exposed flesh. When power makes its way to this end of the island, Grey's Point will air-condition the entire lodge and this problem will be solved. Until then (probably this fall), be prepared for potentially muggy nights and a few bug bites. Otherwise, the rooms are neat, clean, and quite comfortable. Meals are terrific; simple Bahamian food, conch, snapper are served in addition to chicken, pork chops and steaks. There was always plenty of food at each meal. Bottled water is available for drinking and there was usually enough ice, although this was obviously a difficult task to keep up on. The guides ran from excellent to good. Fidel and Joe, out of Lovely Bay, had great fish sense, great eyes, and would pole all day if you wish. All the guides used Carolina Skiffs and knew when to leave the boats to pursue fish on foot. Garin Williamson is learning to guide, but is great at finding fish. He just needs to learn some of the finer points. If you are a dedicated flats fisherman willing to put up with some discomfort and/or inconveniences as a trade off for virgin flats and untouched bonefishing, then Grey's Point Inn is for you. Please call for more details.

Written by Scott Heywood

P.O. Box 845 • Sheridan, Wyoming 82801 • (P) 800-211-8530 • (F) 307-672-3920
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